Milan – It’s a telling comment on the mood at the current Milan men’s fashion season when the bell weather brand Prada packs its runway with such strictly cut clothes, but in such upbeat optimistic colors.
Under Miuccia Prada, this label has always managed to be a design leader, yet also remain something of an exception. On Sunday, June 20, in Milan, it was both again - creating the slickest variations of the new trimmed down, yet also elongated suit that is dominating catwalks yet leavened with jolts of bright hard colors, the sort one associates with power boat racing or skiing rather than sartorial chic.
The designer had telegraphed her punches with her invitation - a shiny Amazonian green invite in translucent plastic, similar to the hues that featured on the curious ski goggles several models sported as necklaces. Similar shades though in more matte hues triumphed in a quintet of twirling top sweaters that climaxed this clever show.
Almost half the models wore shorts, or even "skorts" - an insider term for a cross between a kilt and shorts - adding to the colonial gent in the tropics mood attitude, a leitmotif of the current Italian season. The show also starred Milan's best suits so far - putty and pale beige single-breast jackets over lean pants - that had all the energy and poise one associates with this brand.
The other smart trick was the latest Prada brogue. It came in patent leather and featured super thick soles encased in thick lengths of rope. A simple idea, but a great visual trick and another example of Prada setting the agenda in terms of style. |
